The CR-10S already has a large print volume (300 mm square by 400 mm tall), but we are also selling it’s bigger brother the CR-10 S5, which has an absolutely enormous … Build Volume: 300 x 300 x 400mm. I'm sharing with my YouTube audience. Otherwise I like to do whatever gives me 6+ layers top & bottom. I don't know the math, but generally the higher the infill the stronger the print. Optional settings if possible on your Printer/Slicer. Print Flexible Filament With Creality CR-10: Hello to all, in this article we will see how to change the 3D printer CrealityCR-10 to print flexible filaments without any problem.As many know the CrealityCR-10 has an extrusion mechanism BOWDEN, ie the wire is pushed through a tube in PTFE u… Forget .2 or .25 nozzles, your print will take two weeks for 4 inches. For "normal" (and kinda slow) printing I use .2 here. Adhesion: I put PEI on my glass, but my glass was warped. As each project may require different slicing settings in Cura, CREATE Education provide detailed slicing settings where required in all our project teacher guides to make learning and using the software even easier for beginners. Running is necessary to go through the OS app signature. Wall thickness: 0.8mm (2 shells) for really fast prints. I consider 80mm/s to be "normal," but if I want to make sure something is super-pretty I go down to 60mm/s, and sometimes as low as 40. I'm playing around with my Cura settings and i can't find "good - perfect" settings. First layer .3mm, 2mm layer height after that. Particularly with the newer patterns like Octet. I realize most people love Hatchbox. 2.Select "Settings" → “Level mode” , click on the number ②. 1 2 4 3 5 1111111 11111 The nozzle is too far away from the platform, so the consumables can not adhere to the platform. Here are the profiles I use with Cura. There’s nothing fancy about the CR-10’s design. I think I need to just spend more time with it. I'd delete it, but damn those tree supports are useful. The nozzle is too close … For the examples, we will use Cura (version 15.04.3), a free slicer with similar features to most other slicers. However at this point there is a ton of good general info and some specific info in it. The CR-10 is accompanied by a separate controller box that houses the knob-operated LCD interface and the SD and … For strong prints I make sure to have 1.6-2.0mm. This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Jameslitts115. creality_cr_10_cura_settings of best value to buy. Some glue stick on the PEI is almost 100% successful, however, with or without any adhesion tricks from Cura. Cheap upgrade. However, for 100% infill I often choose concentric (the other option is lines), as I think that goes quickly. Works great. Please be friendly and helpful. I'm sharing with my YouTube audience. Mostly 20% is just fine, or even 10%. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Set my network settings in a text file, SSH’ed over and expanded the partition to the SD card size. August 16, 2017 pixel Leave a comment. If I'm worried about curling or something, I just put a brim around the print. Usually I stay at 195-200 for the average "most of the print" temp. Well-considered slicing settings can help us reduce printing time, save material, and most importantly, increase the chance of successful printing. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click! Think of learning a race car, you start out slow and speed up as you get more skilled. Normally this occurs when Cura does not put support where it is required. (Cura) 3DPT JG Aurora A5/A5S - Small Mini PLA Base 0.08mm v.1.0. You'll be done in half the time and it will work better. | Creator | ignoreme | deletthis. CR-10S Pro 3D Printer User Manual This User Manual is for standard CR-10S Pro. It’s a Cartesian style 3D printer with a Bowden extruder system. You should check at least once. Creality 3D CR-10 S Pro 3D printer: vergroten: Omschrijving De Creality 3D CR-10S Pro is een 3D-printer met een bovengemiddeld groot bouwoppervlakte. Is Creality's massive, brand-name component packed CR-10 Max the jewel in its crown or is it more of a polished rock? (Cura) 3DPT JG Aurora A5/A5S - Small Mini PLA Base 0.08mm v.1.0. Good to hear from someone who's chased this issue down a bit. I am printing on a plain mirror with no adhesion, and I don't print very large items. Result: odd artifacts. is this because of acceleration and jerk? Relax and let it print. I have been running into adhesion and curling problems with Hatchbox filament on a new CR-10 base model that sounds exactly like what you're describing. I ordered it from Gearbest at first but after a month of waiting and it still wasnt shipped i ordered it from Banggood instead and had it in my workshop 5 days later. Line width is .4mm (always your nozzle size). Hope this helps solve your problem. I think the printhead settings for the CR10 series printers are still based on the default fdm profile. (I found out later that this doesn't work - read on.) Infill: Don't really need to do the 100% infill except in very odd cases. This hobby requires patience! If you're after detail, you need to go to a .3 nozzle (remember the nozzle rule, layers are now .06, .09, 1.2, .3, etc. Flow: 100% (for some reason my copy of Cura had default flow at 90%, which I've found is usually a problem). Read on for our review. For many models I don't need anything on the bed except the PEI, as long as I've leveled properly. Some minor comments, other PLEASE join in, this is the sort of thread that should be kept alive. The print quality of the CR-10S is as good as printers which cost 2-3 times as much. We also provide a number of Cura specific resources to help you to learn some of the software features. Maybe. For ultra-fine I use .08mm. Adhesion: I would add that the biggest thing for adhesion isn't a Cura setting, it's a FLAT and LEVEL bed. I recently bought a new 3D Printer. Press J to jump to the feed. This is the SubReddit for the Creality CR-10/CR-10S 3D Printer. Hatchbox PLA is a pain in the ass, generally. Cura Settings Cheat Sheet for CR-10S & Similar 3D Printers: The below settings assume you are using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle that comes installed by default on most printers. Included are slicer profiles, documents and a setup video at the bottom of the page. It is very handy. Page 11 Restore hotend to original Auto-level the printing surface measurement compensate for variable bed height home position *When using the auto level feature on the CR-10S Pro, we suggest adding a raft from the build plate adhesion section in Cura's settings. Author: 3D Printed Tabletop Printers: JGAurora A5/A5S Slicer: Cura Purpose: Small Minis smaller than 30mm layer height (0.08mm layer height default) 25% infill (I often raised to 30-50%), supports auto enabled with new support settings) Please stick around, we need your help in the group! We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2. These are mostly Simplify3D/Cura and Raise3D, Ultimaker 2+, 3+ and S5 specific settings (other printers will require different speeds). Print Head Settings X/Y min/max define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. For my hotend bracket I went fully solid (100%). Install Creawsome Mod For CURA 4: If you have not installed Cura 4 yet, you can progress with it and run it as a beginner. The CR-10S does not have a digiport adjustment to adjust the current for the stepper motors, instead it uses potentiometers that are manually adjusted to control the current for the stepper motors. Each project I've run so far requires me to try 2-5 times before I get a successful print. Printing Speed (Stable) Up to 80mm/s. For these, I can go as cool as 185 (e.g., for the final layers of a print) or as hot as 225. Also- when you're after fine detail trying to get a .4 nozzle to do small details won't work well. I ordered it from Gearbest at first but after a month of waiting and it still wasnt shipped i ordered it from Banggood instead and had it in my workshop 5 days later. The overall design screams minimalism. Settings: Layer Height – 0.15 mm Temp: 220C :-), damn man props to you for writing all that down lol. My issue is I am getting a lot of stringing when printing and eventually my extruder seems to backup under heavy retraction and then fails to extrude. Optional settings if possible on your Printer/Slicer. Creawsome Mod For CURA Installation: Backup User Data: Before making any changes, use integrated Ultimaker cloud backup in Cura. Top & bottom thickness: 0.6mm (whatever number of layers that works out to be) for fast prints. Flexible filament, for example, needs to be very slow like 20-30mm/s. I've been using these settings for a while, it works for me: Please note: These settings are working for me, but they may not be the best for your use. Layer height: .24 (or .28 or even .32) for really fast, rough printing. Hey, the file has been deleted, could you please re-upload it? Some prints are amazing but some are bad. If I want strength I do quarter cubic or octet, as those are not as directional as triangles (which are just triangular columns, basically). Volumetric Marlin is not very common. Lowes is $10 for SIX. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the right-most, front-most and back-most. Yes, the rule is that layers should be an even multiple of the nozzle. I'm playing around with my Cura settings and i can't find "good - perfect" settings. Amazingly fast. For big prints a .4 is like a .3 for smaller - you'll get great detail but L-O-N-G print times. Flat out (pun), if you have an original glass plate, dump it and get some mirror tiles at Lowes, Home Depot or Ace Hardware (or other Home Improvement outside the US). Infill speed: 110mm/s (this can be reduced a lot, if necessary, but it slows everything down), Enable print cooling: Yes (almost always), where: touching buildplate (usually; sometimes 'everywhere'), Overhang angle: 65 degrees (that's my default; sometimes I can get it as steep as 75, and others I don't feel safe beyond 50), Pattern: Zig Zag (and make sure they're connected), support z distance: .15 mm (.1 makes them stick pretty hard; .12-.15 seems OK but can lead to failing supports if they're really tall and thin). Basic settings I use. I thought i would share my basic Cura settings for the printer: Your email address will not be published. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20416-infill, https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/51439-welcome-to-ultimaker-cura-30. Took only about a dozen trips of copying to the SD card before I decided to just hook up my laptop directly via USB. So far though, I've found that bed leveling is most important and I've cranked the speed down to about 60% when printing PLA. This guide shows how to adjust the stepper driver current on the Creality3D CR-10S. Search Google & Youtube, there's several article/videos that discuss the fallacy of more infill = stronger part. Software for using the CR-10S does not seem to be explicitly provided, but that’s not a worry for most people, who can easily pick up a copy of several different slicing systems, such as Cura… Seeing that it doesn't recognize the SD card, fiddling with settings, I start the "Init. 20% or less is fine for like 90% of prints. There are many times we will also use Simplify 3D as it provides more control over the PLA settings. Hi, I'm a bot for linking direct images of albums with only 1 image, Source | Why? +1 for the startup scripts, I have a variation of that and it virtually eliminates my having to do a raft, skirt, brim, etc except on prints that really want to warp. Turns out it just isn't so, and it really slows down your print. Read our easy-to-follow in-depth Cura tutorial to explore the hidden features and settings of the Cura slicer software - that’s where the fun really starts! I have only been happy with results from .1 later higher. ; If you don’t see a setting that is listed here in your Cura, go to the Settings Menu and click “Settings Visibility” then search for it. I have maybe 15-20 custom settings profiles saved. Cheapest creality_cr_10_cura_settings online on TVC-Mall.com, wholesale now for inexpensive creality_cr_10_cura_settings. It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. This is the SubReddit for the Creality CR-10/CR-10S 3D Printer. I'm not exactly an expert, but there isn't just one set of settings. The CR-10 series excel in large prints. If that is an odd number like .4 Nozzle and .3 layer it won't divide evenly and you get it trying to produce weird half layers. I rolled back to Cura version 3.0.4 and will stay there for a while. Print speed: Also spot on, but for those just starting out, slower solves a lot of problems, as you get to know the printer and various plastics. 【Noise Reduced】Linear Pulley System is included with V-profile + precision pulley, running more smoothly, more wear-resistant. If you are using the newest version of Cura, change top/bottom pattern to lines (not concentric). The basic settings menu in an older version of Cura looks like this: As with any 3D printing material settings, these PLA settings must be tweaked for each 3D printer make/model. I would appreciate it, if you guys post your settings so i can take a look at them. : when the filament runs out or disconnected to the SD and … Cura 4.0, i the. … Cura 4.0 save material, and.1mm layer height each project i 've used trial error/process. Please PM /u/eganwall with issues or feedback on a plain mirror with adhesion. Good as printers which cost 2-3 times as much, Ultimaker 2+, and. 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